Panama, Panama - South Again?


So apparently Panama runs East to West, not North to South, who knew.  We have gone further south than where we were in Columbia now but thankfully on the other side of that awful Gap.

We rode out onto Panama soil about 100km Northeast of Panama City with our new friends from the cat and went on the search for the Aduana so our bikes would be there legally.  90km down the road, we arrived at the Airport where we were informed the Aduana was.  They turned us down and sent us down the road.  We arrived despite the awful directions and asked around for the office.  Found the office and got the people working away and it seemed as though things were looking up.  2 hours later, we were having our doubts.  I suppose when the workers keep making phone calls asking how to fill the papers, it is never a good sign.

After finally getting the papers, we headed into town.  Rossy went to an overlanders hangout (way better than our hostel).  Then we settled into our hostel.

The crew

Road from Port to Main Highway

Waiting for the Papers

Arriving in Panama City


We decided to spend the next day around the city.  The first thing we did was see the Canal.  This was convieniently right beside the hostel, so we didnt get too lost.  Looked through the museum and watched the movie of the history.  The canal is currently being expanded which you can see in the background of the picture.  The boat pictured has a mere 24 inches of clearance on either side and is aided with the tug boats (behind my head) and the rail cars at each corner.  Quite the sight to see the boats go through, although very slow...

At the Panama Canal.

After the museums for the day were done we set out on the town in search of a battery and some smaller parts.  Along the way we were pulled over by the cops, and asked for documentation.  This is no big deal usually, but I had unloaded my bike and along with it, all of my documetation.  The officer was not impressed and said he was going to impound the bike, fine me 200 US and then get Derrick to go get my license all while I sat in the station.  He called for a police escort for us and then it all seemed to sink in.  Trying to kill time and relax the tension, we were asking about directions to the battery shop and talking about the trip.  Then escort arrived and we thought our efforts had no effect.  The officer then with a smile across his face with mine still in shock, gives me the stern warning.  Then he instructs the escort to bring us to the battery shop and wishes us good luck in our travels.  An interesting situation indeed.

Cruising the streets of Panama

After getting the battery we headed out for the docks in the point where all the fancy boats come in.

Out to the ritzy part

From the point looking onto Panama

On the way back from the point we were taking a right turn and I braked for the red light in front of me (no right turns on reds down here).   At this point I saw an SUV coming at me in the rear view then the tires squeling against the pavement.  Bam, the SUV hits my tail, I jump off and the car comes to a hault just before running over my bike.  The people got out too see if I was alright (fine, not a scratch).  Then I asked if they could just back up so I could get my bike up to see the damage.  A bent license plate, bent shifter lever and hand guard.   No big deal in the scheme of things.  Shake his hand and drive back to the hostel.  I repaired everything before night fell.  Then it was off to diner at the mall (Air con) and then a movie (Fast 5).  Awful but entertaining movie.  Would recommend to the car nuts out there.  

Ready to tackle Pamana, lets see what excitment is waiting for us now.

Panama, San Blas - The Caribbean on Fritz the Cat

I am very glad that the plane option was out of our budget because we would have missed out on this amazing boat ride through the San Blas islands.  These islands make up part of the southern area of Panama and consists of over 300 tropical islands.  

After 2 days on the open water we awoke to a beautiful sunrise in the San Blas islands.  We had breakfast as the sun rose and were eager to jump into the clear warm water.  Everyone grabbed snorkling gear and explored around the islands the Catamaran was anchored near.

 

Colin and I decided to try our hand at spear fishing.  We both set off to the shallows to hunt for some barracudas.  There was an abundance of tropical fish swimming around and the barracudas were amongs them in the shallows.  We swam around for awhile trying our hand and spearing a few. The Aussie, Rossy and Kiwi, Adam made it look easier than we thought.  After shooting at a few barracudas and missing lots we were defeated and made our way back to the boat for some dinner and relaxing while the sun set.  The inside cabins of the catamaran were hot and humid so we decided to sleep on the trampolines at the front of the boat.  We had the tropical clear water below us and beautiful moon lit starry night above us as we slept. 

 
 
 

The next day we headed towards another small island and set up anchor once more.  Around this tiny island there was a ship wreck which Jose, our chef/crewsman, worked upon.  Long story short apparently the captain was addicted to cocaine, sank the boat, and took out another captain stealing his boat.  For our last dinner Jose cooked up the fresh fish speared by Adam and Rossy.


Colin driving the boat under the sea.

 El Capitain, Rolly, diving down to take a closer look.

Around the island we bumped into this fella swimming around.

Eduardo doing what he does best.  Locals would come up to our catamaran in these canoes and tried to sell their goods.
  

Our new Aussie friend, Rossy, checking out the kitchen. 
 

 The next morning we woke up on the trampolines to Rolly firing up the engines.  The sun was just peaking above the horizon and we crept forward between two islands.  Next thing we know we hear Jose yelling the captains name out and we came to a halt.  We had ran a ground onto the reef.  The right side of the catamaran was stuck and the engines werent getting us anywhere.  Rolly sprang into action.  He tried first pushing the cat on the side with the zodiac with no luck.  Next he with Jose´s help grabbed the catamarans anchors and plopped them down behind a rock several yards from the boat.  Jose then began winching the ropes connected to the anchors which eventually unlodged us from the coral below.  Free flowing we headed towards the coast of Panama to unload the bikes and ourselves. 



We highly recommend taking Fritz the Cat if you are planning on travelling between Colombia and Panama.  Loading and unloading of all 5 motorcycles was easy and they were secure the entire ride.  We also recommend covering your motorcycle when onboard to keep the salt off the bike as much as possible.  Greasing the electrical connections is also a good idea.

Caribbean - Seabound

Waking up at a respectable time the morning of the big trip, we repacked our things and loaded up the bikes.  In typical South American style the boat was delayed by a couple of hours, so we sat back with another cup of the Columbian tinto (coffee) and soaked in the last moments of South America.

Heading into the docks of Boca Grande we were again stunned by the wealth in this part of town.  Designer outlets and luxury highrises, all surrounded by the white sand beaches.  After waiting on the docks for an hour or so, we were greeted by the Fritz the Cat along with the crew.  Rolly, the Austrian giant at about 6'10", is our Captain.  Jose, at about 5' is our First Mate.  The crew consisted of a couple of Kiwis, an America, two Brazilians, four Brits, an Aussie, a Swiss, a Fin, and us three.  There were two other motorcyclist along for the ride, the Aussie, Rossy, a bang up guy with a DR650.  He took a similar route than us through South America and is now embarking on North America.  Blog here: http://www.followtheakubra.com/.  Might ride with him in the coming weeks, if we can manage to meet up again.  The other riders, Heinz and Beth were two up on a BMW 1200GS from Brazil.  Two very kind people with a great trip planned.

Rolly the giant Captain man-handled the bikes aboard and then efficiently strapped the bikes down.  We wrapped them up with whatever we could to prevent sea spray and settled in for the 40 hour journey to San Blas. With the 5 bikes, 16 people and 2 crew on, we set course and Jose cooked up the first of the many great Austrain meals we ate.

Boarding and Loading


Rolly and I

Rolly and Derrick

Our room

After they fed us, the sunset made an impression which displayed the beauty of the open ocean we would be enjoying.  


They then signed us all up for the night watches.  This consisted of making sure the nav was still under control of the boat, looking for other boats, and monitoring the boat itself.  These 40 hours went by surprisingly fast as we occupied ourselves with books, magazines, uno, cards, chess, and of course some basking in the sun.  The water was unusually smooth for this trip, allowing for minimal salt spray on the bikes and a steady boat.  This meant no sea sickness and operable bikes!

We then arrived in San Blas for the sunrise on the 17th.  This was an incredible display of what we would be enjoying for the next few days.