Columbia, Popoyan - Into Guerrilla Territory

Before we made a b-line for the border we figured we would get immersed in some of the Ecuadorian culture and go to the world famous Otalavo market.  The main attraction to the market are the fine weavings of blankets, carpets, scarves and others.  Although, not having a whole lot of room for the carpets, we sufficed with some things for ourselves, Derrick coming away with some pants, paintings, and toque, Eduardo with a Panama Hat and myself with some paintings and a panama hat.  The great Panama hat, made in Ecuador, are a great find, keeps the sun away and keeps you cool, but also packs away nicely.

 Once we had our fun for the day, it was time to tackle the border.  First doing the Ecuador side of things was not so bad, stamp, sign, exchange some money, and spend the remainder of coins on some chocolate and off to the Columbian side.  On the Columbian side of things it got a little lengthy, stamp, photocopies, sign and then inspection.  The customs agent was very nice, after taking the imprint of our engine serial numbers and looking over them carefully, he let us enter without insurance and then gave us some tips on where to stay in town.

Epiales, another border town which we are coming to have a falling out with.  The towns tend to be dreary and have lots of people who want money or to sell you something.  But when borders are an afternoon affair, a stay in these places are inevitable.  We got some insurance at the local supermarket, most expensive yet at 40 loonies, and found us a hotel around the corner.

A fresh start to a fresh country.  Woke up at a decent time and after some amazing Columbian joe and cheese pastries we set off for Popoyan.

The introduction to Columbia was an incredible one, the scenery turned green, the landscape grew rougher and the roads tightened.  It was smooth, curvy riding all the way to lunch at Pasto.

The Colombian soldiers which were scattered along the side of the roadway made for an interesting sight.  Full cammo with fully auto rifles, who would all give us the thumbs up.  A little astounded by the sight of things, all I could usually manage is a meager peace sign back.

Had the typical Almeurzo de hoy for lunch, fillet de pollo con arroz y ensalada (about the extent of my Spanish).  We also met some crazy pedal bikers that were on their way of the ´Transcontinental Triathalon´ meaning they kayaked the inside passage (2000km), walked the pacific cost trail (4000km) and now are bicycling from the us to Ushuaia.  Very nice and friendly folk but we feel like we are definitely cheating when see dedicated travelers like these. Blog is here: http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/hobos/1/tpod.html

After waving goodbye the our new friends, we headed to to do the remainder of the road we had been warned about.  As the km drew onward we began to understand why.  The road was in dire conditions, with first hitting the boulders, rock slides and washouts.  The going was slow, ensuring that the only one direction of traffic navigated around the obstacle.  This we have become accustomed to in the south, and we know our place, not in right of way.  But then the potholes began.  The potholes not presenting much of a challenge for the bike, but the trucks seemed to have an absolute fear of them as they would completely cross into our lanes, and not move when they saw us.  Several times each of us had to jam on the brakes or squeeze on the shoulder to avoid the large object coming towards us.  Definitely one of the most exciting roads we have ridden thus far, and I hope it remains that way.  Derrick captured video, although there is no way we would be able to upload the 200mb masterpiece, so pictures and your imaginations will have to do.

Once we got into Popoyan, everything seemed possible after surviving that road, and we found a hostel for a good price, parked the bikes in the entrance way and hit the town for some diner.  

Popoyan was a beautiful town, with white buildings within 2 blocks radius of the plaza and the intermixed stone overpasses.  Time to recuperate after that treacherous day.

Ecuador, Cayamba - Middle of the Earth!

We ate our breakfast in bed while watching the Crocodile Hunter movie then packed up and rolled back onto the Pan American to head north.  We decided to bypass Quito as we did not feel being in a big city and getting lost trying to find our way around.  As soon as we rolled into the entrance of Quito there was a traffic jam.  We sat in traffic for about half an hour while smaller bikes were able to lane split their way to the front.  Unfortunately, our large rears of our bikes prevented us from getting between the cars so we had to wait it out with all the others.

On our way to Quito we also passed Cotopaxi Volcano which is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world.

Eventually we got through traffic and through Quito to the other side.  Colin watched his GPS as the latitude read 0 degrees.  We made it to the Equator!  There was a somewhat of a tacky turisty site to visit so we had to pull in to check it out.

Panama hat!!! yes they are made in Ecuador..

After a bunch of goofy pictures and a walk back and forth over the equator we headed into Cayamba to find a place to stay for the night.  We just rolled in while the sun was setting.  Apparently, Cayamba is famous for its Bizcoches which are a breaded buttery pastry.  Amazing with coffee.

Bizcoches shops all over Cayamba.  At this one all the big buses would stop and grab a bag for the road.

Ecuador, Riobamba - A ride in the fog past a erupting volcano

We rode down the cobbled stone roads out towards the round about to head towards Quito.  We got lost in a hurry and somehow Colin and I got split up from Eduardo.  We eventually found the Pan American highway again and were on our way.  We climbed up and up.  We saw the largest pig we have ever seen before.  I literally thought it was a horse eating garbage until I got closer.  Anyways, we continued along at a good pace until we hit an immensely dense patch of fog.  It would cover your visor in dew and was so hard to see a couple of meters infront of you.  It also doesnt help when no one has their headlights on to see oncoming traffic.

We eventually got through the fog after winding down the mountain side.  Around one of the turns we finally caught up to Eduardo who somehow got ahead of us.  We stopped in a small town to have lunch.  Only costed us a whole $2.50 which came with soup, juice, rice, chicken, salad, and a coffee.

Together again we headed to Riobamba where we did the usual get lost in town looking for a hostel.  We eventually found the Oasis Hostel which was a great place for only $10.00 a night with parking for the motorcycles.  We went to the local supermarcado too pick up some food for the morning and we noticed the security gaurd who had his gun unholstered while he was hovering his hand over it walking around the store.  Made for some interesting shopping.  We walked around town a little bit and snapped some pictures.  There was a volcano erupting near by which was showering the surrounding area with ash.  There was black soot everywhere.

Heres the garden just outside of our room.  

In Peru we have came across some shady showers.  Even though the showers are still better than Chile and Argentina... dont know where they learned to use drywall for the walls of the shower stall... Anyways we went from this....  Notice the ground wire is just touching the metal piping....

to this... wow.